Some Setp Hints for the Hartley TS16 –
Barrie Heath, in conjunction with many referees.
This will appear in “Tillerscope” as a series of 3 articles, unless someone else would like to contribute an item on something I have missed. It will be available as a separate item if anyone would like it that way.
An Email I received has prompted me to record some information that may be helpful to novice and improving skippers in the setting up of their TS16. These are some points that I have “sort of” intended to record sometime ago, but just didn’t get around to it.
Firstly, I suggest that one should refer to the publications “Tune & Trim”, the “Rigging Guide” and the “Measurement form” and also the N.S.W. Safety Manual
Mast Rake Richard Hartley recommends in his setting up notes, that the mast should initially be raked at 200mm, from the masthead to the step. From here you will be able to experiment with other settings.
This is done by putting a spirit level on the top of the centre case, and setting the boat to that level before running a plumb-bob from the top of the mast – this assumes that the top of the centre case is parallel to the water-line. However it is a starting point on your boat.
From here it’s really a trial and error situation that best suits the boat. For example one boat was best at 250mm, where another was better of at 22.5mm.
Rig Tension General opinion seems to be that the rigging should be tension’d to a reading of 35/38 on a rig tension gauge with the jib luff wire in place. Basically this theoretically means that if your rig tensioning
tackle is at a 10:1 ratio then with a pull of 35 kilos on it the output would be around 350 kilos.
According to the information with the Loos 91 tension gauge, for 3mm 1x19 SS rigging a reading of 35-38 implies a tension of 165-204 Kg in the shrouds. The luff wire, having a wider angle, would be somewhat less, maybe around 150 - 180 Kg. However, what value you should use depends on how the jib is cut. One skipper sets his at 36 on the Loos tension gauge and let it off up to 25mm on the luff wire in light weather
This can be let off fully when the jib is poled out, but remember to re-set it before you come back on to the wind
This tension can depend on a few things, but 36 on the rig gauge is still a good starting point.
1. The depth of your jib 2. The sea conditions 3. Wind strength
If you have been running square you may need to ease the sheet before re-tensioning to avoid stretching the jib out of shape as you tighten the rig
Diamond tension. The common practice with these is to have them set so that one can lightly squeeze the wires to the mast about 400mm from the lower fastenings. This allows the mast to pop to windward (in hard weather) and opens the slot.
Again this is a good starting point, but after a while you should be able to get a feel for the masts stiffness or lack of it. If you find yourself fighting with the helm in 15 knots there’s a good chance there to tight. If you find your struggling for pressure in the lighter breeze or losing height to other boats try tightening them. You’ll never get the perfect setting unless you change them from week to week to suit the conditions so its important to find a happy medium.
Centre-plate Lets start with being sure the leading edge of the plate is at 90 degrees to start with. After this, one comes into the technical area of placement of “Centre of Effort”, etc, so some degree of experimenting under various conditions needs to be done, and perhaps reading more technical data. If you get a windward helm as the wind freshens, perhaps a slight rake of the fin may help.
Or you could work with getting the trailing edge square to the skeg
Some skippers like to have neutral helm all the time and to rake the board to achieve it. They would set the boat up to have neutral helm with the board right down and a bit of leeward heel in moderate weather and with a combination of board rake and boat heel aim to keep it neutral at all times. If they can't quite do that all the time they would sooner have slight weather helm occasionally than lee helm
Crew Positions Generally, weight as far forward as possible is the rule, so in a breeze of 10-12 knots, crew should be sitting hard against the bulkhead, with the skipper tight alongside.
One boat would only do this when going to windward. As the breeze freshens the skipper goes back in the boat when off the wind. For moderate breezes his aim when off the wind is to have the full waterline length in the water. When the boat looks like planing he goes back further. In really hard weather off the wind the crew and skipper will be back near the transom.
In very light winds, the crew often finds themselves in the cabin, sometimes well forward, and the skipper sitting on the leeward side to keep the boat heeled.
Generally it is best to keep the weight close together. Upwind in light breeze if the skipper sits against the cabin the forward hand should be on the centreboard case. If the forward hand gets to far into the bow it changes the balance and feel of the helm to much. But this is an issue that will change from one person to the next. Under 5 knots it may be better to steer from the leeward side, with the forward hand in the cabin to leeward as well.
In very light weather one skipper likes to dig the bow in and get the stern out to reduce wetted area by getting the crew in the cabin lying along the leeward chine well forward
On a square run in heavy weather, crew & skipper may well be sitting well aft.
Its important to keep a neutral feel on the helm so the forward hand will have to move around until this is achieved. Most of the time in 15knots and above they should be sitting on the windward side just inside the cabin.
Jib furlers Great for cruising, but generally a disaster if you want to race. There are two reasons: firstly the general inability to be able to get adequate tension on the luff wire to get clean entry (there is a way, ask me)
Secondly, it sets the sail too high off the stem and cabin, again affecting the air-flow, but is not so important.
Jib Pole sheeting When the jib is goose-winged, the pole should be roughly in line with the boom. Tradition has the crew sitting on the cabin top in light to moderate winds, holding the boom out. In moderate wind they should be standing on the floor to the front of the hatchway. But in heavy winds the cabin top is a place from which the crew can suddenly go for a swim, so In very heavy weather it would be preferable for them to be sitting on the forward end of the centre-case.
The pole is held ‘out’ by the windward jib sheet, and should be cleated to windward. Always take in the slack of the leeward one. Barber haulers are not illegal, but are something else to attend to, and are not generally used. Under 10 knots it feel its best to not use the barbar hauler. Over 10 knots it good to use to control the leech of the jib.
When reaching with the jib poled out one could pull the off sheet on hard to make the top of the jib set better. Incidentally, barber haulers may not help when poled out, but could be useful when reaching or working.
On my whisker pole, the release line is fixed at a point 2/3rds from the mast, so that the pole must be pulled well back before the jib can be released. This generally reduces the liability of the jib getting wrapped around the forestay, but the crew need to be sharp about getting in the sheet in and cleated on the correct side.
While the crew is getting the pole in the skipper could usually pull the sheet in a bit and cleat it to prevent the jib tangling around the luff wire.
Jib Sheet Cleating It is important that the jib sheet can always be easily released from the windward side of the boat.
My personal preference is for the cleats to be set at the top of the bulkhead, and not on top of the cabin. It is far easier to set the sheet, tension it and then to quickly release it than having to lift it up to release when on the cabin top – particularly for the ladies.
About the Sheets (ropes) Again this is a matter of personal preference, the main aim being to get the sheets to flow quickly & smoothly through the blocks.
Jib Usually a 10mm pre-stretched rope with a loop whipped in the middle which has a shackle for fastening to the jib, and a ring for the whisker pole. The greatest angle the sheet will pass through the block will probably be not more than 90 degrees.
Main Again, usually a 10mm pre-stretched rope, but if frayed or fuzzy, it should be replaced immediately. However, I have found that 8mm dinghy rope is just right and moves easily through the blocks and for grip I wrap it once around my gloved hand.
Fin hoist An 8mm rope is suitable for this, and again while some may prefer pre-stretched rope, I am using 8mm dinghy rope because it is softer and moves well around the smaller blocks. (3:1 minimum, 4:1, 5:1 better)
Tip: when the boat is on the trailer for towing or storage, let the fin rest on the rollers, (to save stressing the cleat), and put a long loop over the mast with a loose half hitch. When you go to raise the mast next time, you will have to undo this and it will remind you to re-lock the fin up before launching.
Halyards Usually 6/7mm rope, attached to the halyard wire. These should NEVER be undone when the sails are up, as you may have to do an emergency drop. They should be cleated off on quick release device.
I have set deck leads by my mast and feed the halyards through them to lie loose in the cabin.
Care of sheets As all sheets on a boat are subject to spray they will naturally absorb the salt & become stiffer. A good hose down regularly will help, but I also soak my sheets twice a season in hot water & Nappysan, which really cleans them up.
When Laid up It is a good idea to have an air-flow through your boat when not in use, so this pre-supposes that there is a hatch on the fore deck.
Also, elevate the bow, remove the bungs, and insert a short length of cotton cloth to act as a wick to drain the last drops out of the boat. Fresh water is the most dangerous thing you can have in the boat as far as rot is concerned.
Not a bad idea to put the trailer on blocks to ease the weight off the tyres if not moving for some time.
In conclusion! The above has been written with the idea of setting some basic information out for beginners, people coming into the class, and those who are improving. There may be some useful point to those who have been about for a while and forgotten!
Sail Power what happens when -
Jib –
when the sheet is moved forward, the foot goes loose & the leech tightens – the effect is to power up and is used on light winds
When the sheet is moved aft, the foot tightens & the leech loosens, flattening the sail.
When the jib luff wire & Cunningham are tightened, the sail is made flatter & drive pulled forward – when eased, the sail becomes deeper & the drive moves aft.
Main
The Cunningham (eye) affects the mid third of the sail – tight brings drive forward, eased moves it aft
The Vang affects the top third of the leech
On tight tightens the leech, eased loosens it
The Outhaul affects the bottom third – on flattens it and off deepens it
Slot
Jib sheeting position inboard makes it narrower & opens out when outboard
The main traveller makes it narrower when eased to windward & opens when pulled to weather.