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Rudder Assembly

Rudder Assembly

Hartley TS 16 RUDDER STOCK

Designed and developed in South Australia Issued April 1991

Note 1: M5 threaded stud, full width with 25mm spacer tube Material: Aluminium 25 x 25 x 3 mm tube E 20782 or equal 3 mm Marine Grade flat at top of cheeks Welded joints (undercut)

The gudgeons could be Riley, RM 582 & RM 58

This is the aluminium stock available from Trevor Bell  

Hartley TS 16 RUDDER BLADE

Alternative Rudder Blade – approved profile Issued April 1991

Note: top profile can be adjusted to suite angle of transom and required rake of blade

Making a rudder blade for the Hartley TS16. 

While the original plans & instructions suggest the blade be made out of 19mm ply as some failures have occurred with 16mm ply particularly if water penetration occurs. Cut pieces as shown on plan and glue together.

However this makes a very heavy blade and it may not float.

For the aluminium rudder stock a different size is needed and details are on the alternative rudder drawing.

  • The blade is best made out of a number of pieces of wood glued together, as the lamination is stronger and lighter. The blade may be faired, with a rounding on the leading edge and taper on the trailing one. When making, it is suggested that the builder has the stock it is to fit, as there may be a slight variation in the width due to movement in the welding process.
  • It has been noted that blades made with dowelling or ‘biscuits’ to join the wood are prone to break.
  • For the area where the pivot pin goes, drill a 25mm hole with a speed bit and put a plug made from and old hardwood broom handle, or you could thoroughly soak the hole with Everdure or resin, then fill it with Plastibond, and drill the hole through that.
  • The blade may be glassed over for added strength, and finished with varnish.

Note: blades are not generally made from fibre-glass, as the ones that have been have split. They would be too heavy if made strong enough. Blades have been made using Balsa or Foam, & glassed, but they have split. One should remember that the blade is subject to very strong forces.

For further help speak with your State Measurer

Boat Fitting

While the tiller in this picture is made from wood, it broke & I now have made it from aluminium, using 19mm x 1 m square, (can be ought from Bunnings). See the rudder set-up on my CD. When fitting the tiller, & before cutting the top off the rudder stock, I suggest you clamp it in place, the put the stock on the transom & swing it, making sure it will clear the seats each side, and also the inner part of the outboard well.

 

Rudder – suggested parts list

These are the parts on my rudder assembly and are a guide only.

Gudgeons - Riley 3/16” counter sunk                                                    
  1. 1 x RM 5822         
  2. 1 x RM 584

Remember to put something neutral, like electricians
tape on inside to stop electrolysis.

  1. 2 x 2” for cleat
Tiller Locknuts
  1. 2 x 19 x 19 x 1000 mm square aluminium, wall thickness

7 x ¼”
4 x 3/16”

Bolts- 1/4 hex head Misc
  1. 1 x 1 ¾”  for Rm582
  2. 2 x 2” for RM 584
  3. 1 x 3” for blade pivot
  4. 2 x 3 ½” for tiller on stock
  5. 1 x 2” for tiller end
  1. 1 x S/S cleat  RF 5011
  2. 1 x single block RF 2335 or RF 185 or RM 422 or RM425
  3. 1 x single block w becket RF 681
  4. 1 x double block (drill out axel) RF 417 or RM 426
  5. 1 x single lead block RF2379 (back of rudder
  6. 1 x single lead block RF 568 or 569 (back of stock)
  7. Perspex 300 x 70 x 4 mm
  8. Nylon tiller extension clip PNP43E (Ronstan)
  9. Tiller extension RF 1121 or 1127 or other fitting
Bolts- 3/16” round head
  1. 5 x ½” for perspex     hole in tiller is tapped
  2. 1 x 1 ½” for perspex  hole in tiller is tapped  this one has small block
  3. 2 x 3 ½” for support